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Both menus offer local/seasonal renditions of Italian dishes, with Neb staying on the safer side — e.g., a crowd-pleasing baked artichoke and olive dip rich with cream cheese, ricotta and dill.

While the chef may not be chasing trends or viral dishes, his boundary-pushing approach has earned him a loyal following of diners who appreciate his take on Italian American food.

“We all know alfredo is not Italian, but everybody loves it,” David explained. “We put it on the menu because it gets a good reaction from the people.” Pastorino added that every dish ...