Vilnius, in the south-west of the country ... one of which contains the fairy tale-esque Trakai Castle. Intermittent whooshes of liquid propane momentarily break the silence and warm our faces ...

Stroll the grounds of the Trakai Island Castle, surrounded by the lazy flow of the Neris River, or hole up in one of Vilnius' many cozy cafes for a few hours of people watching. Of course ...